Season Holiday Cooking With Fresh Herbs
By MARIA NOEL GROVES
If you're looking to enliven your holiday staples, skip the
recipe overhaul and think minor tweaks with greenery.
Fresh herbs are a fast and simple way to enhance tried-and-true
recipes, even ones already heavily seasoned with dried herbs.
Switching to fresh can give a dish a whole new feel and flavor.
``Fresh herbs offer a dramatic difference in flavor and
texture,'' says David Kamen, an instructor at the Culinary
Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.
To illustrate his point, Kamen has students make the same recipe
twice, once with fresh herbs, once with dry. He says his students
are amazed at the difference fresh herbs can make.
If your recipe calls for dry herbs, use twice the amount of
fresh sturdy herbs, such as rosemary, sage and thyme. For tender
herbs, such as parsley, chives, dill and tarragon, opt for three
times the quantity when using fresh.
Jerry Traunfeld, author of ``The Herbal Kitchen,'' suggests
starting with three easy cool weather herbs.
``In the winter, rosemary, sage and thyme are still in the
garden,'' he says. ``These three herbs make sense with foods that
you cook in the winter: root vegetables, roasts, heartier dishes.''
These classic herbs blend well with many traditional holiday
foods. For example, try a few sprigs of rosemary in your mulled
cider, or chop the leaves and mix them into in gingerbread or
butter cookies.
And don't hesitate to experiment with fresh basil, dill, parsley
and other herbs generally used in summer. Most grocers stock a wide
variety of fresh herbs all year.
Here are some suggestions for making the most of fresh herbs:
ROAST TURKEY
Stuff sprigs of rosemary, sage and thyme beneath the skin of the
turkey before roasting. This prevents the herbs from burning and
allows the flavors to penetrate the meat as it cooks. Aim for as
many 3-inch sprigs as pounds of turkey, and divide the herbs up
under the skin of each breast and thigh.
Or beat together 2 tablespoons each of chopped fresh parsley and
chives with a stick of softened butter. Put in a pastry bag and
squeeze between the skin and meat before cooking.
GRAVY
Separate the leaves from the stems of several sprigs each of
rosemary, sage and thyme. Place the stems in the hot gravy for
several minutes to infuse it. Strain out the stems, then add 1
tablespoon of chopped leaves per cup of gravy.
Or simply place the whole sprigs of rosemary, sage and thyme in
hot gravy for 10 minutes, strain and serve. ``You don't have to
take the stems off so it's really easy,'' says Traunfeld.
HAM
``Ham likes sweet and spicy,'' says Kamen. He adds bay laurel
leaves (not California bay) to his ham glaze. Gently simmer a half
or whole leaf per cup of glaze.
Or add 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves per cup of
honey Dijon sauce to add a licorice note to your favorite glaze.
For a more savory ham, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of chopped rosemary,
sage and thyme per cup of glaze.
STUFFING
Traunfeld turns to sauteed wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles
or porcini, and fresh marjoram for his favorite stuffing. Frozen or
reconstituted dried mushrooms can be used if they aren't available
fresh. The marjoram offers a milder flavor than its close relative
oregano.
Both sage and thyme offer classic flavors to stuffing. For 12
servings worth of stuffing, chop 1 to 3 tablespoons fresh herb
leaves and fold them into your stuffing. Also add 1/2 cup chopped
fresh parsley for bright flavors.
BISCUITS AND ROLLS
Fold chopped fresh chives and grated cheddar cheese into biscuit
batter for a tasty quick bread.
Rosemary, sage, thyme and dill are among the few herbs that hold
their flavor well when baked, says Gary Allen, author of ``The
Herbalist in the Kitchen.'' He suggests adding 1/4 cup of chopped
rosemary or sage leaves to biscuit batter or dough. Thyme and dill
have mild flavors, so use 1/2 cup of either per dozen biscuits or
rolls.
If you don't have time to make fresh bread, flavor the butter
instead. Use a food processor to mix 1 tablespoon of chopped chives
and 1 teaspoon of fresh squeezed lemon into a stick of softened
butter. Reshape in wax paper or place in dishes, then refrigerate
to harden slightly before serving.
Using the same technique, add roasted garlic and finely chopped
rosemary leaves to softened butter.
POTATOES
In a food processor, blend any tender herbs into softened
butter, then add that butter to mashed potatoes. Basil, parsley,
chives or dill work well. Use 1/4 cup of herbs (except basil, use
1/2 cup) and 6 tablespoons of butter per 2 pounds of potatoes.
Infuse parsley and fresh bay laurel into warm milk before adding
to mashed potatoes. Use two parsley stems and half a bay leaf per
pound of potatoes. Discard the stems and mash the milk into the
potatoes. For layered flavor, Kamen suggests folding chopped fresh
parsley into the finished mashed potatoes.
For a unique North African flavor, chop fresh mint into softened
butter and add about 1 teaspoon per serving of mashed or roasted
potatoes.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
Bundle 4 sprigs of thyme with string, then let them simmer in
cranberry sauce along with finely grated zest from one orange. Or
simmer 1/4 cup each of chopped parsley and rosemary with a 2 cups
of whole berry cranberry sauce.
11/12/07 15:33
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